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To Color Your Hair or Not To Color?

Jul 30

Posted 10/28/2004 By: Perri Jackson on OrganicConsumers.org

 Act I: Scene I: Ignorance is far from bliss

Since the day I colored my hair, life has been like a Shakespearean

play. Act I begins on August 12th the day I walked into the salon to

try and roll back time. Women these days have bought into the

advertising campaign that aging is unacceptable and our natural

appearance is inadequate. We were naïve to think that the chemicals in

cosmetics and body products had been adequately tested and then approved

by our government. We all have been unaware that the chemical companies

were putting untested compounds in the products that not only adults

have put on their bodies, but have placed on our children. We have been

ignorant to the FDA’s ineffective process of testing and regulating hair

dye, among numerous other products. If I had only known that the

government had placed money above the safety of its citizens, my story

would be much different.

 

Act I: Scene II: Know the enemy

Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD) is an ingredient found in most hair dye

whether it is purchased at a store or an upscale salon. There are a few

brands that do not contain this ingredient but may contain other harmful

or highly allergic substances such as nickel. What is PPD? It is an

aniline dye also known as a coal tar dye. Basically, it is petroleum.

What is it used for? It is a substance used in rubber chemicals, photo

developer, oil, gasoline, ink, textile dyes, dark cosmetics and hair

dye.

This ingredient goes by many names such as PPD, 1,4-Benzenediamine and

numerous other aliases. For a list of alternate names please see

www.dermnetnz.org/dna.acd/ppd.html . The National Institute for

Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) stated that you should “prevent

skin contact” with PPD in order to avoid the “symptoms: Irritation

pharynx, larynx; bronchial asthma; sensitization dermatitis” (NIOSH,

www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0495.html ). Recently, PPD received bad press

when it was used to darken henna tattoos and caused numerous disfiguring

scars. The FDA states “So-called “black henna” may contain the “coal

tar” color p-phenylenediamine, also known as PPD. This ingredient may

cause allergic reactions in some individuals. The only legal use of PPD

in cosmetics is as a hair dye. It is not approved for direct application

to the skin” (FDA, www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-tatt.html ). However,

when most hair dye is applied it does come in direct contact with the

scalp and quite often touches the skin on the forehead and ears. Hair

dye is in direct contact with the skin for sometimes up to 30 minutes.

The FDA apparently feels that it is unsafe to use PPD for a tattoo but

safe enough to apply directly onto your scalp.

 

Act I: Scene III: More than you bargained for

The most common allergic reactions are dermatitis of the eyes, ears,

scalp and face, which may include a rash, extreme swelling and a severe

burning sensation on the scalp. The most severe reactions are

cross-sensitization and in rare cases death. Cross-sensitization means

that it not only makes you sensitive to PPD but you become responsive to

all of its chemical cousins. This includes most textile dyes, pen ink,

gasoline, oil, food dyes, medication dyes, preservatives (Parabens) and

some drugs (all caine drugs (Benzocaine, Novacaine), Sulfonamides,

sulfones, sulfa drugs, and Para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA)). One last

cross-reactor would be fragrances since so many contain related

chemicals. You can see from this list that if you are cross-sensitized

as I was that you become allergic to just about everything found in

modern society. For a complete list of reactions please see

www.dermnetnz.org/dna.acd/ppd.html

Now that I am cross-sensitized, exposure to any of the items listed

above can cause me to have a blister rash, breathing difficulties and

even anaphylactic shock which could result in death. I am unable to go

into most buildings and must stay away from everyone that is wearing

fragrances (shampoo, fabric softener, perfume). I have to carry an

Epi-Pen at all times in case I go into anaphylactic shock and a medic

alert bracelet has become a permanent part of my wardrobe. In a medical

emergency there is little they could do since I am allergic to most

medicines because they contain dye and/or preservatives.

 

Act I: Scene IV: Life in a bubble

If you have a minor reaction (slight burning, itching scalp or minor

facial swelling) these can be treated by antihistamines or steroid

shampoo. Most likely your reactions will become more dramatic with each

coloring.

Cross-sensitization could occur the first or the 25th time you color.

Doing the patch test 72 hours prior to dyeing your hair could give you

advanced warning of an acute reaction. Most people at home or in salons

don’t do the required FDA patch test. They believe no complications

last time ensures you will be fine this time. Nothing could be further

from the truth. If you become cross-sensitized you usually have

symptoms within 24 hours of the coloring. Severe swelling of the eyes,

ears, or entire face and possibly intense burning of the scalp (to the

point that standing under a cold shower for hours is the only relief)

may occur. You may find, as I did, that products you put on your body

before will now burn your skin. Your shampoo, deodorant, toothpaste,

makeup, detergent, fabric softener and even your soap may cause severe

irritation. Almost all commercial products contain ingredients that can

cross-react with a PPD allergy, such as, the preservative Paraben or

dye.

You will need to contact a Dermatologist immediately to be properly

diagnosed with a PPD allergy. They will advise you of all of the

chemicals you will have to avoid. You may also be referred to an

Allergist/Immunologist to perform tests to see if your immune system has

been damaged with the exposure. These specialists will tell you

avoidance is the only way to handle this allergy. This means you have

to avoid all places which may expose you to the chemicals you are now

cross-sensitized to. For example: cleaners, carpets, pesticides, gas,

oil, and fragrances. I have found avoiding fragrances to be the most

complicated. The average person walking around has placed so many

chemical fragrances on them before they leave the house; their soap,

shampoo, conditioner, deodorant, gel, hair spray, shaving cream, makeup,

scented detergent, fabric softener and they top it off with perfume or

cologne. It is impossible to go into any public building and avoid all

of the chemicals they use to clean or the fragrances on the staff or

patrons.

If you are cross-sensitized you are usually referred to an Environmental

Medicine Specialist. This specialist will guide you on the life-style

changes you will have to make due to this allergy. Depending on the

level of the allergy you may have to change all of your linens, clothes

and towels to organic cotton or hemp which may have to be color free to

avoid skin reactions to dye. Some of your furniture that has polyester

fiberfill (mattress and couch) may have to leave the house. You will

also find that almost all of your medicines from prescription to over

the counter will be off limits due to dyes and preservatives.

Your grocery bill may triple because you can only consume organic food

to avoid preservatives and dye. Reactions may occur to the building

materials of your home, such as carpet, paints, sealants, and tar based

roofing material. Currently, it runs about $250 a square foot to build

an environmentally safe home for this allergy, which does not include

the purchase of land. Most people can not afford to buy a home of this

expense so they may stay sick from reactions to their current home. You

may be advised to purchase an infrared sauna to try and reduce the

severity of your allergic reactions over time. The average cost of

these saunas is around $3,000.

Even though Environmental Medicine doctors practice traditional

medicine they are not readily acknowledged in the medical community.

They have come under attack for speaking out on the subject of

chemically related illnesses, primarily by chemical and pharmaceutical

companies. Therefore, most insurance companies will cover a

chiropractor before they will cover an Environmental Medicine doctor.

This causes the victims of hair dye cross-sensitization to pay cash for

their medical care, despite having insurance.

 

Act I: Scene V: Justice is not only blind it’s bought and paid for.

Do the chemical manufacturers and the hair color companies know the

dangers of this chemical? I asked for permission to include the

Material Safety Data Sheet on P-Phenylenediamine (PPD) from one of the

manufacturers, Dupont, and was declined. I strongly encourage you to

review the Dupont MSDS at http://msds.dupont.com The MSDS number for

PPD is 1067CR.

Most people think the FDA is minding the store and ensures the safety of

hair color. Reality is that the “FDA is responsible for overseeing the

safety of cosmetics sold in this country and can prohibit the sale of

any cosmetics found harmful–except most hair dyes. Although the

adulteration provision of the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act enables FDA

to seek removal of a cosmetic from the market if it is shown to be

harmful under conditions of use, hair coloring made from coal-tar were

given special exemption from bans when the act was passed in 1938. The

main ingredient in the coal-tar hair dyes manufactured at the time

prompted an allergic reaction in some susceptible individuals. Fearing

FDA would ban the sale of hair dyes because some users might develop a

rash or have other allergic reactions, the industry successfully lobbied

before the act passed to get coal-tar hair dyes exempted from the

adulteration provision. Manufacturers were required, however, to include

a warning in the labels that the products can cause skin irritation in

certain allergic individuals” (FDA, www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/qa-cos17.html).

 

The industry was successful in lobbying to be exempted from regulation

and with only minimal information required on the label. Clearly our

government placed the industries desires before the safety of the

public. The warning label required on all hair dye reads as follows

(601(a) of the FD&C Act): “Caution – This product contains ingredients

which may cause skin irritation on certain individuals and a preliminary

test according to accompanying directions should first be made. This

product must not be used for dyeing the eyelashes or eyebrows; to do may

cause blindness” (FDA, www.fda.gov/opacom/laws/fdcact/fdcact6.htm ).

 

When one reads that this product can cause skin irritation, visions of a

rash or itchy skin comes to mind. One wouldn’t gather that the product

could cross-sensitize them to numerous chemicals found in every day

products. Do you see anything on the label that warns of a possible

death from anaphylactic shock? Or anything to alert someone with liver,

kidney or lung disorders that they are more at risk for side effects?

Because a label that contained all of that information just might stop

people from using the product. However, the unsuspecting patrons of

salons never see the box and the pretest is not among common practice. I

believe the industry got a label saying just what they chose to reveal,

not including the more severe side effects.

 

Does anyone else besides the manufacturers and the FDA know about the

risk? Just take a look at the following links from the EPA

www.epa.gov/ttn/atw/hlthef/phenylen.html , National Library of Medicine

http://toxnet.nlm.nih.gov and the National Institute of Occupational

Safety and Health www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0495.html. In the Medical

Journal entries provided by the Henna Page

www.hennapage.com/henna/ppd/ppdmed.html there are numerous listings that

point to cross-sensitization and death from hair dye. There are so many

articles on this chemical it is impossible to list them all.

 

Act II: Scene I: The Canary sings the blues

The coal miners knew that canaries were very susceptible to gas vapors

and used them as an early warning device, if the birds stopped singing

they knew to run for the exit. Those of us who have had anything from a

minor reaction to the more severe cross-sensitization or death are the

canaries of the dangers in hair dye. How many people have to be trapped

in their homes or die from this chemical before something is done? We

all remember that there were concerns about the dangers of tobacco long

before court cases were won. Our government waited until it was a

national epidemic before acting. The chemical industry makes the

tobacco industry look like a bunch of Girl Scouts.

 

Perri Jackson

Albuquerque, NM 87111

texaspatriots@hotmail.com

 

Works Cited:

. Ngan,Vanessa. (2004, February10). Allergy to Paraphenylenediamine.

[Online] In New Zealand Dermatological Society.

Available: www.dermnetnz.org/dna.acd/ppd.html

 

. Technology Transfer Network Air Toxics Website. (2003, February

12). p-Phenylenediamine. [Online] In U.S. Environmental

Protection Agency. Available: www.epa.gov/ttn/atw/hlthef/phenylen.html

 

. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (1998, November 17). Chapter VI –

Cosmetics. [Online] In Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act.

Available: www.fda.gov/opacom/laws/fdcact/fdcact6.htm

 

. Patlak,Margie. (1993, April). Are Hair Dyes Safe. [Online] In U.S.

Food and Drug Administration website. Available:

www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/qa-cos17.html

 

. Office of Cosmetics and Colors Fact Sheet. (2001, April 18). Temporary

Tattoos and Henna/Mehndi. [Online] In U.S. Food and Drug Administration

website. Available: www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-tatt.html

 

. Cartwright-Jones,Catherine. (2002, March 21). Warning: PPD Black Henna

Page. [Online] In The Henna Page. Available:

www.hennapage.com/henna/ppd/ppdmed.html

 

. National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health. (2003, January

3). p-Phenylenediamine. [Online] In NIOSH Pocket Guide to Chemical

Hazards. Available: www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/npgd0495.html

 

. National Library of Medicine. (2003, January 24). 1.4 Benzenediamine.

[Online] In The Hazardous Substances Database.

Available: http://toxnet.nlm.nih.gov Search for 1,4 Benzenediamine and

select the HSDB, select the first article.

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